Ignition Switch

IGNITION SWITCH

I was having starting problems that were driving me crazy. I re-soldered the DME, Replaced the Coil and checked the speed and reference sensors and everything was ok. Finally I located the problem. With the ignition switch and its associated mounting out of the car it would start no problem. As soon as I install it in the car it would not work. Closer inspection of the switch revealed that it was cracked .

These are a couple of photos of the broken switch.

Crack in the side of Ignition Switch
Looking at front of the Switch
Back of the switch

The following is a basic set of instructions and photos from my 1987 924s. This car does not have air bags and I have a Dino Wheel so your car may be different.

Ok lets get started. First off you will be dealing with allot of little screws. Make sure that you have a container to put them in as you take things apart. It is also important to lay things out in order as you remove then as it is easy to leave something out during the reassembly

Small scribe or small coal chizzes to mark location of the wheel relative to the steering column

Here is my steering wheel. Note that it is centered and double check that the wheels are strait.

To remove my wheel I have to take the six Allen bolts out in the center of the wheel. THIS IS NOT THE SAME AS A STOCK STEERING WHEEL. Please reference the cars shop manual for instructions

Once the wheel is free you have to disconnect the Wires for the horn. THIS IS NOT THE SAME AS A STOCK STEERING WHEEL

Next remove the rubber boot from around the adaptor/crush zone.THIS IS NOT THE SAME AS A STOCK STEERING WHEEL

On my set up there is a marking for where the "TOP" should be. If you have not done it already make sure your wheel is centered. THIS IS NOT THE SAME AS A STOCK STEERING WHEEL

Next remove the center nut. This may requite some muscle Mine comes off rather easy. I put a large screwdriver through the adaptor bracket and hold it while I take the nut off with a socket. Take the nut and washer of but DON'T TAKE THE ADAPTOR / WHEEL OFF YET. THIS IS NOT THE SAME AS A STOCK STEERING WHEEL

Once the nut and washer are off you have to scribe the shaft and the adaptor. On the stock wheel you will be scribing the wheel. The mark on the adaptor is hard to see but it is there. Note the mark on the steering column

Now you are looking at the top of the switches / stalks. There are three flat head screws that have to be removed.

Now that you have removed the screws the stalks will be loose. You now have to remove the plastic housing around the stalks. It splits longitudinally and is held in place with two screws that are from below. The reason I did not remove this first is it is easier with the wheel removed and with the stalks loose it is easier to remove the plastic pieces. Here are a couple of photos showing the screw locations looking up from below.

Now it is time to CAREFULLY slide the stalks off the column. There are a bunch of wires connected to the switches. In my car I don't have to remove them. I carefully pull them forward from underneath as I gently pull on the switches out. You will also note that the two stalks / switches can separate from each other. If this happens it is ok. Just carefully continue to pull/guide the wires out until the switch clearers the steering column. Repeat the process with the second one. If the two switches came apart I then CAREFULLY put the two switches back together once they are removed.

Both switches removed and reassembled. Note that I still have the wires attached. You could remove the wires but I prefer to do it this way because if you forget to hook up a wire that happens to pull back through the dash it will be a real pain to attach it after you put it all back together.

Note the three little holes that are where the three screws went that hold the switches. These can be broken off very easily. DO NOT PRY/LEAN or hang anything from these. If you brake any of these you will have to replace the whole piece. A couple of other things to note ate the bearings around the column and the Allen head bolt that is visible on the left side of the column.

Here is another photo from the side. The next thing to remove is the plastic collar that is around the steering column. To get this off I pry gently but firmly in the slots around the bottom. Once it moves a little I switch to a small pry bar that is thicker and wider than my largest screwdriver and carefully work it off. DO NOT PRY ON ANY OF THE THREE SMALL SCREW HOLE'S AS THEY WILL BRAKE OFF.

With this bolt removed the asemble with the ignition switch will slide out. Note that there are a bunch of wires attached to the back of the switch.

Now flip the piece over and look at the back where the wires were plugged in and you will see a small Phillips screw. Remove this and the switch will slide out.

On my new switch I put some grease on the end of the switch where the tang from the lock engages as this will se allot of ware.

You are now ready start the re assembly. I will not cover the whole thing just a couple of highlights.

the plastic ring/spacer will get some burs on it. I lightly sand / file them off befor I reinstall it. I also put a light coating of grease inside to aid in it slipping back on. When reinstalling this do not use a screwdriver and a hammer to tap it in place. It will damage the plastic or even split it. I use a large deep socket and tap on it alternating forum side to side.

When I install the plastic trim pieces I again do this with the switches in place but not screwed in place. this will give you a little play when you put the trim pieces back on. In the following photo you will se how I place the top trim piece. I then push it down and back in place. It should just snap in place.